Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/24

 LIVERY BREECHES. Diagram 5.

Measures: 34, 15, 17, 22, 30, 36 14, 13, 14.

Livery Breeches are made to fit the seat, thigh, and leg closely.

O to H, side length plus 1 inch.

H to 12, leg length plus 1 inch.

12 to 6, one-sixth seat.

12 to 9, one-fourth seat.

12 to 12¼, one-third seat plus ¼ inch.

Square down from 6 to 12, 12 inches.

12 to 1, 1 inch.

Draw line from 6 through 1 to 23.

6 to 16, leg length to knee, thus 1 inch.

Continue on to 18, 21 and 23 the respective lengths to small, calf and bottom, plus 1 inch.

A to 2, one-fourth waist plus ½.

Lower fronts at B, 1 inch.

16 to 3½, 18 to 3, and 21 to 3½, respectively, one-fourth of knee, small and calf.

16 to 28, 1 inch less than 16 to 134, and so on at 2, 2.

UNDERSIDES. Add 1 inch of extra length to undersides at top of side seam.

9 to 7½, one-sixth seat plus 1½. Or by Registered Square, dropping angle line at B ¾ inch.

9 to 13½, one-eighth seat.

3½ to 4½, 3 to 4, and 3½ to 4½, 1 inch each.

Make up leg to measure at F and G, allowing 1 inch for seams.

Undersides cut 1 inch shorter in leg than topsides.

These are usually made from Drab Kersey or White Buck-skin.

Generally finished Fly Front but sometimes are made up with Whole Falls.

CONTINUATIONS. Diagram 7.

0 to 7, length desired.

0 to 7½, half calf plus ½ inch.

7 to 5, half bottom plus ½ inch.

0 to 2 and 7 to 2, 2 inches.

0 to 1 and 7 to line drawn down from 1 inch.

A represents finished knees, the first, button should be placed at small, and tack 1 inch higher.

For Diagram A see next plate.