Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/234

 SAFETY APRON HIDING SKIRT.

The accompanying diagram is a reduced model of one of the best styles of Safety Skirts made.

It is popularly known as the Apron Riding Skirt, for the simple reason that it consists of little more than an apron.

The underside is cut away to a large extent.

The diagram is clearly marked in plain figures, which represent inches in all cases.

If reproduced by the ordinary inch tape, it will produce a train suitable for a figure 24 waist, and 40 seat.

A larger or smaller one may be produced by using a graduated tape agreeing with 4 inches less than the half seat.

This model being drafted by the 36 tape for a 40 seat.

Make variation in length at bottom.

In making up, the side seams are sewn together as shown.

Point 8 of the top side joins to point 14 of the underside, and F to 20.

Two button holes are worked at B to fasten to buttons sewn on an elastic tab A.

This goes round the leg and keeps train in position.

Double cloth is put on at E.

An elastic strap is put on at C, and an elastic loop at D.

A small cloth tab is put just above C, to fasten the skirt across over the back when the wearer is dismounted.

The dot and dash line shows where the edge of the lining comes. This is continued over the Y's of underside.

The X at front of waist shows where the centre of waist comes.

The placket hole is faced as shown and the pocket inserted as illustrated.

The sketch on the forepart shows the train made up as viewed from the inside.

When cutting from the cloth care must be taken to cut it right side uppermost.

Ladies usually ride with the right leg over the pommel, and in that case the parts must be cut with the pattern laid on the right side of cloth, as shown.

Occasionally, ladies ride with the left leg over pommel, in which case lay the pattern on cloth wrong side up.

The making-up is very simple, a slit or placket hole is put in top side, as shown, and in the facing of this, a pocket is inserted.

The flap is sometimes fastened with holes and buttons, and sometimes with a fly.

The front is lined at top, either with Italian or linen.

Sometimes a strapping of the same material is put over the knee to take the wear as shown.

A deep hem is put round the bottom.

Elastic foot straps, placed as shown, stayed to a square of linen.