Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/224

 WALKING SKIRT. Diagrams 317, 319.

The styles of Walking Skirts change so rapidly that it is only possible to illustrate a standard style as a basis.

The one here shown consists of front, sides and back.

Front Diagram, 319:—

0. 7, 7 inches. Mark out from 0, $1/undefined$ waist, and raise side ¼ inch.

From 7, mark out $1/undefined$ seat.

0 to 40, front length, plus seams.

40 to 13, ⅓ seat, or to taste.

Side Gore, Diagram 318:—

0, 4, side length.

Mark out from 0, $1/undefined$ waist on either side, then take out a dart from the centre at 0 of 1½ or 2 inches.

Square out from 7, $1/undefined$ seat on either side.

From 41 mark out ⅓ seat on either side, and complete side gore, as shown.

The dot and dash line at C, D shows how to make this into two side gores.

Back Width, Diagram 317:—

Draw lines at right angles to 0.

0 to 4, 3½ to 4 inches.

4 to 8, allowance for pleat, 4 to 8 inches, if required.

Make width at bottom equal to ⅔ seat.

Add on 1 inch at top at 8, and complete, as shown.

Cut centre of front and hack on crease edge.

When sewing side gore to back sew in a strip of linen to prevent stretching.

Back is usually 2 inches longer than front.

If trained, it is several inches longer.

For Full Flounce:—

Cut off the bottom of skirt to the depth and shape of flounce desired.

Join these parts together, and, if thought desirable to make the flounce fuller, cut pattern up and open out at distances of from 4 to 6 inches apart.

This practically amounts to the insertion of V's all round the bottom.

In this way any degree of fulness, and any shape flounce may be produced.

These instructions should suffice for an intelligent cutter to produce any style of skirt desired.

I give another well tried model on next page.