Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/220

 CAPES. Diagrams 313, 314.

Capes are always more or less popular, and though they frequently assume fancy styles, yet, as a general rule, they may be confined to the Three Quarter and the Half Circle patterns.

These are the styles I now describe.

The simplest method of cutting them is by the aid of a jacket pattern of the same size as customer.

Thus, suppose the cape is to be worn with an Ulster, take the back and forepart pattern by which to cut the cape.

THREE-QUARTER CIRCLE CAPE. Diagram 313.

Place back and forepart down with the shoulder seams in a closing position, as illustrated at 2, 4.

Mark off from 1 to 5 the length desired, plus seams.

Add on a little spring at 5.

Mark round the gorge 1, 2, 3, and down the front 3, 7, by the breast line.

Add on the necessary button stand, if it is desired to make it to button.

2 to 6 is 2½ to 3 inches more than 1, 5.

2, 7 is 1 inch more than 1. 5, or the length of front may be measured from 3 to 7, 1½ inches less than 1, 5.

HALF CIRCLE CAPE. Diagram 314.

The back and forepart patterns are laid down with shoulder points touching, and the neck points 2, 3 opening so as to allow 1, 9 and 5, 7 to be at right angles, or thereabouts.

The outline of pattern is then marked at 9, 1, 2, 6, 3, 4, 5, and 7.

The length is found at side and front as for the ¾ circle.

1, 9 length to measure, plus seams.

2, 6, 8 and 3, 6, 8, 2 to 3 inches more than 1, 9.

5, 7, 1½ inches less than 1, 9.

Add on button stand, and complete as per diagram.

This is the style generally used for long capes.

Diagram 337 is very full and only suitable for short capes.

PANTEEN COLLAR. Diagram 315.

0, 7½, half neck.

7½ to 1, 1 inch.

4 is half way from 0 to 7½.

Shape sewing to edge of collar at 0, 4, 7½.

0 to 1½ and 1 to 3, the depth desired, say 1½.

Hollow out ¾, and shape fall 1½, 3½, and 3½, 5½ to taste.