Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/22

 RIDING TROUSERS. Diagram 4. Measures : 44, 32, 30, 36, 16, 10.

System 0, 45. Side length plus 1 inch.

45 to 12, leg length plus 1 inch (left on for fulling the top-side on over the knee).

12 to 6, one-sixth seat.

12 to 6, one-fourth seat.

12 to 12¼, one-third seat plus ¼ inch.

Square up from 9 and down from 6.

6 to 12, 12 inches.

Mark towards side 1½ inches and draw centre line from 6 through 1½ and F to E.

F to 4, one-fourth knee.

Mark across from A one-fourth waist plus ½ inch.

Lower fronts from 13, 1½ inches.

Shape fork and leg seam.

Make E to 3¾ one-fourth bottom less ¼ inch.

Shape sideseam making E to 4 one-fourth bottom.

Measure up leg from 6 to E, adding 1 inch and squaring by centre line.

Well hollow over foot and complete topside as draft.

STRAP BUTTONS. These are placed 3½ inches from centre of heel for first button on either side (see Diagram 29). They should be stayed with linen and tacked through.

UNDERSIDES. 9 to 7, one-sixth seat plus 1.

Or by Registered Square lowering angle at B 1 inch.

9 to 13½, one-eighth seat.

4 to 5,1 inch.

3¾ to 5¼, 1½ inches.

Make undersides 1 inch longer than topsides at 8 for fulling on over seat.

Add 2½ to waist and take out 1 inch fish.

Add 2 to 3 inches over measure at seat.

Make undersides 1 inch shorter in legs than topsides.

Complete as draft.