Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/218

 LADIES' INVERNESS. Diagram 312.

This is one out of many styles of cloaks popular with ladies.

They have the advantages of being easily put on and of well covering the garments worn underneath.

The diagram here given illustrates the cutting of one, with a moderate amount of shape in the back and side, but not by any means close fitting.

The system:—

Draw line 0, 30.

O to 2½, $1/undefined$ natural waist length.

0 to 8, depth of scye.

0 to 15½, natural waist.

0, 30, full length, plus two seams.

Draw lines at right angles to 0, 8, and 15½.

0 to 2½, $1/undefined$ of neck, mark up ¾, and draw back neck.

2½ to 6, width of back, plus seams.

15½ to 5½, ½ inch less.

Draw line from 6 to 5½, and spring out below.

Mark back from 15½ 1 inch, and draw centre of back from 0 through 1 to 2.

8 to 20, ½ chest, plus 2.

20 to 12, the across chest measure.

Find point F by Registered Square or by sweeps, making 12 to F the front- shoulder measure, less width of back neck.

12 to D, over-shoulder measure, less 8 TV of back.

F to V. $1/undefined$ neck.

V to I the same quantity.

F to D, ¼ inch less than ¾, 6.

Draw line from V through 20 to bottom.

Add on 1 to 14 for button stand.

Shape scye from shoulder to about 1½ above waist, making it about 1½ wide at shoulder, more or less to taste.

Take out 1½ at 5½, 7 and 1½ at 10, 11½.

Terminate dart about 4 inches below waist, and let bottom of sideseam overlap back 2½ or more.

The wing:—

The shoulder scye and gorge are already found, and the front is 1½ inches in front of forepart at bottom.

The wing is rounded in sleeve head form; indeed, it is a very good plan to use a sleeve for the purpose of drafting it, letting it overlap at forearm pitch about 1 inch.

To get the back of wing, draw a line from 6 through 8 to C.

Make the length agree with the sleeve, sweeping from the back pitch by the length of hind arm.

Continue across, straight at front.

C is sewn to B, together with the sideseam of forepart.