Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/214

 It may be well at this point for me to describe the system briefly:—

Draw line 0, 22½.

0 to 2½, $1/undefined$ natural waist length.

0 to 8, depth of scye.

0 to 15½, natural waist.

15½ to 22½, 7 inches.

Draw lines at right angles to these points.

0 to 2½, $1/undefined$ neck, come up ¾, and shape back neck.

2½ to 6½, width of back, plus 2 seams.

15½ to 1, 1 inch, and shape back seam from 0 to 15½, 22½ to bottom.

½ to 20½, half chest, plus 2 inches.

20½ to 12½, the average between across chest and across bust.

Find neck point F by the Registered Square, dropping the angle line ¼ in front.

Mark up from 12½ to F the front shoulder measure, less width of back neck.

12½ to D, the over-shoulder measure, less ½ W of back.

Shape scye, sinking it ¼ below scye line.

F to D, ¼ inch less than ¾, 6½.

F to V, and V to I are each $1/undefined$ of neck.

Draw front as previously described, and add on 1¼ inch for the S. B. button through style, or 2½ to 3½ for double breast.

For the location of the seams, mark back from 12½ to 11½, 1 inch.

Divide ½ to 11½ into three equal parts.

Width of back at waist half of ½, 4½.

Width of side pieces ½ inch less than on depth of scye line.

Take out 1 inch at 3, 7 and 7, 8, and 1½ at 11, 12½, terminating the under-arm seam about 4 inches below hip.

Make up hips to measure plus 3 inches at sideseam, and let sidebody overlap back ½ inch.

Reduce waist to measure, plus 2 inches by a dart, 2 inches from front, and terminate it from 8 to 10 inches below waist.

Cut sleeve as Diagram 293, perhaps a little wider, say extra ½ inch at elbow cuff.

In making up a narrow facing is put all down the front

The body is lined to the hips.

The back may be finished with an opening with or without side pleats at bottom of sideseams or the back may be finished with box pleats.