Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/208

 FLY FRONT THREE-SEAM JACKET. Diagram 303.

Semi-Fitting Jackets have been very popular.

This draft will convey a good idea of how they are cut.

Shoulders, scye, neck, etc., are drafted as before described.

The amount added for making up is reduced 8 to 19½, being half chest, plus 1½.

The quantity added beyond breast line for Fly Front is about 2 inches. For S. B., as illustrated, add on 1¼4 inches.

The waist is suppressed ½ inch at back.

The width of back from ½ to 5 is about ⅛ breast, or to taste.

5 to 6½ is 1½ inches, and a fish of 1½ is taken out under the arm about 3 inches from side seam.

This is sometimes carried through, in which case any spring required at the hip may be divided equally at this and side seam.

If there is only the latter, then the whole of the spring must be added at side seam.

This may be extended to the length of an ulster, if desired, with no other variation than the addition of the desired length.

If it is to be worn over a jacket, it must, of course, have more size given to it to the extent of 1 or 2 inches a side.

BOLERO JACKET. Diagram 304.

This dressy little garment has been a great favourite of late.

On this diagram I illustrate two styles—the rounded front and back, and the square back and pointed front, as figure.

I have illustrated it cut in two pieces—the back whole, and a dart taken from the front.

This dart is frequently dispensed with, the form being given to the canvas and the outside cloth worked on to it.

The popular style of the collar is the shawl.

This is best laid on as for a Gent's Dress Vest.