Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/206

 SHIRT BLOUSE. Diagram 299.

0 to 2, about 2 inches.

0 to 8, depth of scye.

0 to 15½, natural waist length.

0 to 19, full length desired, plus 2 seams.

15½ to 1,1 inch.

Draw lines at right angles to 0, 2, 8, and 15½.

0 to ¾, $1/undefined$ of neck.

Raise point ¾ above line and shape back neck.

2 to 6, width of back, plus seam.

8 to 20, half chest, plus 2 inches.

Draw lines from 0 to 1 and 1 to 6.

8 to 8 is ¼ breast, less 1 inch.

Take out about 3 inches under the arm at the waist.

Make the width of back about $1/undefined$ breast.

Shape yoke from E to C, to taste.

Let back overlap yoke, two seams at E and C.

Add on about 2 inches all down back for fulling in to yoke as per dot and dash line.

20 to 12 is the across chest measure.

Take Registered Square, and place angle on line 12, 20 with point at 12, and front dropped ¼ inch below line, and mark up to F the length of front shoulder, less width of back neck.

12 to 16 is the over-shoulder measure, less ½ W of back.

Make width of shoulder from F to D agree with back from ¾ to 6.

Shape the scye by these points, as shown in diagram.

F to V is $1/undefined$ of the neck.

V to I is the same amount as F, V.

If a front yoke is desired, cut off from B to I, and grow it on to ¾ 6, as shown, letting it overlap two seams.

If a full front is desired, add on 3 or 4 inches at the front, and allow two seams at top as per dot and dash line.

Complete as diagram.

SHIRT SLEEVE. Diagram 300.

0 to 3, 3 inches.

0 to 20, length of sleeve desired.

0 to 8½ half scye, plus 1 inch.

20 to 6, $1/undefined$ breast.

Cut seam from 8½ to 6, hollow or straight, to taste.

Diagram 302 shows the cuff and Diagram 301 the collar, both of which are marked in plain figures, and indicate the usual widths, etc.