Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/204

 POUCHED BLOUSE.

Diagram 296.

This is cut on the same lines as previously described, in the shoulders and neck.

The back is cut whole, and being loose fitting, nothing is taken out at waist.

An extra inch or so of length is added for the pouch over.

8¼ to 8 is ¼ breast, less 1 inch.

From 2 to 3 inches is taken out in suppression at the sides.

The back may be either reduced to the size of the belt by V's as shown, or drawn in.

The forepart has about 4 or 5 inches of extra length added.

If a moderate amount of form is desired, a fish may be taken out.

It is, however, more often cut without the darts.

The solid line in front illustrates the plain S. B. button through.

The dot and dash line shows the neck lowered, and the fronts cut away to show a light fancy silk blouse underneath.

The dotted line shows the forepart adapted for a D. B. front.

For bell sleeves (Diagram 297) add on extra width at hind arm as shown.

For a pouched sleeve add on round as illustrated, and draw in the bottom to the cuff, which may be cut as shown by Diagram 298 in the sleeve.

These popular garments admit of an almost endless variation of cuts, but the general principles of cutting are as here shown.

The fronts are usually made up on a close fitting lining.

The illustration shown at the top of opposite page has the D. B. lapel, for which the top of forepart is cut as Diagram 306.

The waist is brought into measure by the back and foreparts being sewn into a belt.

The sleeve is pitched as for bodice, 2 inches down from shoulder seam at back and | inch up from bottom of scye in front.