Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/202

 HABIT OR CLOSE-FITTING JACKET. Diagram 292.

The leading points of this draft are the same as for the bodice.

There are only two side bodies, and the jacket is continued over the hips.

1 inch of suppression is taken out at each seam at waist.

The waist is reduced to size by the darts.

These are drafted with the centre line running parallel to breast line.

The darts terminate 8 or 10 inches below waist, and when, ever possible cut them through to the bottom.

Make up hips to measure, letting forepart overlap the side piece half the amount necessary, the side piece overlap the side body ⅓ and the side body overlap back $1/undefined$, the extra size needed.

It is not wise to ever make the hip too close fitting, at least 3 inches a side should be allowed over the half-seat measure.

If thought desirable, sink the scye a trifle; this may be done with advantage in jackets.

The buttons down front do not as a rule go below the waist, and the number above varies from 4 to 10.

A pocket is often placed in front of the forepart at bottom, the mouth being placed vertically.

The neck is usually finished with a collar and turn.

JACKET SLEEVE. Diagram 293.

Drafted as for Bodice, except that top and underside are made equal width at elbow and cuffs, and back pitch placed at sideseam.

The cuff, 5, 20½, is squared by elbow 5, 8.

For the new Bell Sleeves add on as per dotted line at bottom of hind arm. For wide cuffs they should be made a little longer.

LADIES' VEST. Diagrams 294 and 295.

Hollow back, 2 from 15½ to 2.

1 to 9¾, ¼ breast, plus ¾.

Take out 1 inch fish at 6, 7, and make 2, 10, ¼ waist, plus seams.

10¾ to 9¾, ¼ breast, plus ¾.

Find shoulder scye, neck and front, as for Bodice.

Hollow waist. 1 inch at 1, from'line squared down from 10¾.

Make up waist to measure, plus seams at darts.

Complete draft to style of front desired.