Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/200

 Let the darts run towards front at bottom.

Find the top of dart at G by measure, allowing for three seams.

Check length of waist at H in same way also, allowing ¾.

BODICE SLEEVE. Diagram 291.

0 to 6½, width of scye.

That is, the distance from centre of back to front of scye, less the width of back.

6½ to 2½ is obtained by placing square with arms on pitches B, E and K, and adjusted according to the balance of sleeve desired. See Diagram 290.

J to E fixes 6½, 2½.

2½ to 10½, size of scve between the two pitches B to 6 and D to E.

0 to 5¼, half 2½, 10½.

Measure off length of sleeve. The width of back is applied at L, and the length is measured down to 9 and on to 6 for elbow and cuff.

Hollow forearm 2 inches at elbow and make width 1½ inches more than half width desired.

Width of cuff 21 to 6, 1½ inches more than half cuff desired.

21 to 4, ½ inch less than half width of cuff desired.

Measure round bottom of scye from B to E, and apply this measure from 6½ to 7½.

Complete as shown, making elbow of under sleeve 2 inches less than the top sleeve at that part.

THE NORFOLK JACKET.

The Norfolk Jacket is usually cut with two sidebodies after the style of Diagram 292.

The sideseam is carried up to the shoulder instead of into the scye.

As a rule there is only one dart taken out of the forepart.

The pleats are generally cut as separate strips about 3 inches wide.