Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/20

 BELL BOTTOMS AND WHOLE FALLS. Diagram 3. Measures: 46, 32, 32, 36, 14, 21.

1 to 2, side length.

2 to 3, leg length.

3 to 4, one-sixth seat.

3 to 5, one-fourth seat.

3 to 6, one-third seat plus ¼ inch.

Square up from 5 and down from 4.

Open legs by making 4 to 10,12 inches.

10 to 11, ½ to 1 inch.

Draw line from 4 through 11.

12 to 13 and 12 to 14, one-fourth knee.

15 to 2 same as 12, 13.

15 to 16 same as 12, 14.

Round the bottoms of top sides as shown.

5 to 7, one-fourth seat plus 1 inch.

7 to 9, one-fourth waist plus ½.

FOR WHOLE FALLS. Top sides are cut across from 7 to 9 or 2 inches down from the top.

The bearer is made to follow outline of top side at side seam and top.

It should go under the fall 3 or 3^ at 7, and about 5 inches below 9.

Always avoid a too shallow bearer. Allow 1 inch for button stand at 7, 8.

UNDERSIDES. 5 to 21, one-sixth seat plus 1 inch. Or use Registered Square, dropping angle at B ½ inch.

Measure up waist 7 to 9 and 22 to 25, to half waist plus 1 inch.

Allow 2 to 2½ over seat.

5 to 7, one-eighth seat.

14 to 18, 1 inch.

15 to 19, half bottom plus ½ inch less width of top side 15 to 16.

15 to 20, half bottom plus ½ inch less 15, 2.

Hollow bottom over heel.

Complete top of seat piece by shaping up to 24; as usual 22 to 23, 2 inches; 23 to 24, 1½ inches.

If a clean fit at fork is desired, take out dress as shown, but this is often omitted in Whole Falls, though the same necessity for it exists whether the trousers are Fly-front or Whole Falls.