Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/198

 I now take a sample set of ordinary measures to draft a bodice by:—

8, 15½, 18½, 5½, 19, 28, 7 X chest, 9 X bust, 12, 10, 7 neck* 36, 26.

THE BODICE SYSTEM. Diagram 290.

Draw line 0, 19.

0 to 2, to taste, usually about 2 inches.

0 to 8, depth of scye.

0 to 15½, natural waist.

0 to 19, full length, plus ½ inch.

Draw lines at right angles to 0, 2, 8, 154.

0 to 2½, $1/undefined$ neck.

2 to 6, the width of back* plus two seams.

15½ to 1, 1 inch.

Draw back seam, 0, 1,19.

½ to 20½, half chest, plus 2 inches.

20½ to 12½, the average between the across chest and across bust measures.

Thus, 7 plus 9 equals 16, average 8.

Find F by Registered Square, dropping angle line down ¼ in front.

12½ to F, front shoulder measure, less width of back neck.

12½ to D the over-shoulder measure, less ½ W of back.

F to D, ¼ inch less than ¾, 6 of back.

Shape scye very hollow at E, and keep it close up at B, C.

F to V, $1/undefined$ neck.

V to 1 the same as F, V.

Draw breast line from Y through 20½.

Add on ¾ on button-hole side, and 1¼ or 1½ on button side.

SEAMS AND SUPPRESSIONS.

In large size bodices put in three side pieces.

In small ones, two are sufficient.

12½ to 11½, 1 inch.

Divide 11½ to ½ into 3 or 4 equal parts, according to number of side bodies.

Make side bodies 4 inch narrower at waist than on depth of scye line.

Suppress ¾ at each part, if there are three side pieces, or 1 inch at each part if there are only two.

Always take out 1 inch at under arm.

Reduce waist to measure, plus 2 inches by two darts.

Arrange the front of the first dart 1½ inches from breast line.

Make the strap between the two also 1½ inches.