Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/184

 The Back (Diagram 278 and 279):—

0 to 2, 2 inches.

0 to 9, ¼ of the breast.

0 to 17, natural waist length.

0 to 38, the length desired, plus 2 seams.

Square lines from 0, 2, 9, 17 and 38.

0 to 2½, $1/undefined$ neck.

Come up ¾, and shape back neck.

0 to 9, one-fourth of breast.

Square down from 9 to 9a.

Shape the slope of back shoulder from 4 to 9 and outline the bottom of yoke to taste.

From 9 to 9a is ¼ of the breast, and continue to 11½, 2½ inches more.

Shape back scye from 2 to 11½.

Let back overlap yoke a good ½inch for seams.

Square down from 11½, hollow waist ½ inch, and add on 1 inch of spring for the hips.

Add 2 inches beyond the construction line for pleats, and complete back as shown.

The Sleeve (Diagram 280):—

0 to 2½, 1½ inches.

From 2½ to 9½ is half the scye, plus ½ to 1 inch.

0 to 22 is the length of sleeve.

22 to 6 is $1/undefined$ breast.

Shape sleeve as shown.

0 to 22 is the crease edge.

The Cuff (Diagram 281) 0 to 4½, halt size of cuff desired, plus ½ inch.

0 to 2 is the width of cuff desired, plus ½ inch.

In each case add on point at 3, and complete.

Collar (Diagram 282):—

0 to 8, half neck, plus ½ inch.

0 to 1½, height of collar desired at back.

8 to 1, 1 inch.

1 to 2, 1 inch.

Complete the stand of collar as shown.

If turn-down collar is desired, cut fall as shown.

Take out 1 inch between 1½ and 2½.

2½ to 4, about 1½ inches.

2 to 4½, 2½ inches, complete as shown.

All the parts are represented on the crease edge, towards the right side except the collar, which is at the top.

When cutting, two yokes (Diagram 278) will be required, and two sleeves, the forepart, the back, the collar, and two cuffs all cut on the double.

The dot and dash line down the front shows where the slit is cut on the right side.