Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/18

 CORPULENT TROUSERS. Diagram 2. Measures : 46. 31, 50, 48, 22, 20.

Our standard proportionate figure is 6 inches smaller at waist than seat, thus : 42, waist; 48, seat.

Difference between the proportionate ideal and actual 8 inches.

This indicates the amount of disproportion.

1, 2, side length.

2, 3, leg length.

3, 4, one-sixth seat.

3, 5, one-fourth seat.

3, 6, one-third seat.

8 to 9, one-sixth disproportion—say 1½ inches.

Recede 9 from fork line, half this—say ¾ inch.

8 to 1, one-fourth waist and two seams, ½ inch.

Open legs by marking down from 4 to 10, 12 inches.

10 to 11, ½ to 1 inch. This is not always necessary, but is generally desirable.

Square knee and bottom lines by 12 and 15.

12 to 13 and 12 to 14, one-fourth knee.

15 to 2, one-fourth bottom.

15 to 16, one-fourth bottom less 4 inch.

UNDERSIDES.

5 to 16, one-fourth seat, or obtain seat line by using Registered Square.

5 to 19, one-eighth seat.

14 to 17, 1 inch.

16 at bottom of leg seam to 18, 14 inches.

Measure up waist 8 to 1 and across undersides to 22, the half waist plus 1 inch.

Mark in to 20, 2 inches and up to 21, 1½ inches.

Allow 2 inches over half seat at 23.

Complete, as diagram.

Trousers cut open in the legs should be made up rather longer than the measure.

FRENCH BEARERS. Diagram 27. Button catch cut wide enough at top to extend to side about 2 or 2½ wide, where a tab with holes is arranged.

They are very useful for corpulent figures.