Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/174

 THE COVERT COAT.

Special Features: Fly front, generally whole back; slits at bottom of sideseams; seams frequently raised; cuffs generally finished with five rows of stitching; tab arranged under collar; number of pockets optional; usually two flap hip pockets; ticket pocket flap; and one breast pocket Hap; usually lined, but sometimes made up with only buggy across top of back, and facings through forepart.

The system for cutting is the same as for Chesterfield, the diagram being self-explanatory in this respect.

When cut with a whole back, ¼ inch less allowance should be made for seams.

The allowance beyond the breast line for fly front is 2 inches,this being a lighter coat than the Chesterfield.

For raised seams an inlay should be left on the part that goes under, and the following are the rules for overlapping: —

Left back over right, back over forepart at sideseam, back over forepart at shoulder seam, body over sleeve at seve, top side over undersleeve at both hind and forearm.

Sometimes the forearm seam is left plain.

If it is desired to finish it raised, the two rows of sewing may be put in before joining the sleeves, turning in the edge and stitching down, and then sewing the top and underside sleeves together by ordinary sewing.

MILITARY OVERCOATS. Diagram 268.

The new pattern Military Overcoat is of the Raglan pattern, as may be gathered from Diagram 268.