Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/172

 THE GOLF CAPE.

Special Features:—Whole back; seam over shoulders; usually fastens down front with buttons; Prussian collar; kept in position by shoulder straps fastened to the back neck.

System:—Capes are easiest cut by the pattern of the coat they are to be worn over. 1 have taken Chesterfield pattern for my purpose in diagram.

Lay back and forepart patterns down with shoulder points touching and the centre of back and breast-line of forepart arranged at right angles. Mark round the parts as indicated by dotted line, and draw angle line A, R, N.

Add ½ inch at B and draw centre of back from A to B.

Add on 1 inch from C to 1), and G to H of back.

Take oft 1 inch from E to F and G to H of the forepart.

Draw line from It through H to I.

Make I to J and I to K about 2 inches more or less in harmony with amount of fulness desired.

Draw side seam straight from 17 to J and H to Iv.

Adjust length as follows:—

A, B, to measure, plus ½ inch.

H, I, 2½ inches less than A. B.

F, L, same as A, B.

For button through mid 1J inches in front of breast line as N, O.

If to be worn with coat arranged with a turn, lower gorge at M. to run with crease row, and cut away front as M, L, according to style desired, as dot and dash line.

If D. B. front desired, add on 3½ inches beyond dotted line N. O.

The dash line P, Q represents front edge of fly front Chesterfield.

The shoulder straps are made up 2 inches wide, and from 46 to 50 inches long, arranged to fasten with buttons and boles.

When they are made to cross over the breast in front they must be cut longer.

Arm-holes are sometimes arranged in the foreparts, especially when they are used for Motoring, and in these cases sleeve cuffs are inserted.

For hoods to be worn with this (see Diagrams 259 and 261) and for Prussian collar (see Diagram 262).