Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/170

 UNIFORM OVERCOAT.

As worn by the drivers and conductors on the London United Tramways Company.

Special feature:—D. B. Hap pockets on hips, ticket pocket flap, five gilt buttons up front; the top one coining between collar and lapel. Seam down back, with slit at bottom. Piping of blue, round cuff, 3½ inches from bottom. Gilt badges on collar, lined black Italian cloth.

The system:— 0, 3, ⅓ scye depth.

0, 9, depth of scye.

0, 17½, natural waist length, plus ½ inch.

26, 9 inches below 17½, or thereabouts.

0 to 40, full length plus ½ inch.

0 to *3, one-twelfth breast.


 * 3 to ¾, ¾ inch.

3 to 8, width of back, plus 1 inch.

9 to 7½ width of back, ½ inch.

9 to 21½, half chest, plus 3½ inches.

21½ to 13⅛ across chest measure, plus ⅜.

Find neck point, by Registered Square or by sweeps.

13½ to F, front shoulder measure, plus ½ inch less 0 to ¾.

13⅛ to 1), the over-shoulder measure, plus ½ inch less, 9 W of back.

F to D, a trifle less than ¾ to 8.

F, V, and V, I, each one-twelfth breast.

Sink scye ½ inch below depth of scye line.

For proportionate waist, square down from 21½.

Add on button stand 3£ inches, and shape lapel to taste, and, if thought desirable, take out V as shown.

Hollow back seam ⅜ to ½ inch, and make back £ breast, plus ½ inch at waist.

Take out ½ to ¾ as from 7 to 7¾.

Obtain spring over hips by marking in from 7¾, 6 inches to 14. dropping down 1 and squaring bottom of sideseam by 7¾, 1.

Square across from 40, and lengthen front at bottom ¾ inch.

If a smarter fit is desired at waist, take out fish under the arm, placing it about 3 inches from sideseam.

The pockets of those coats should be of strong material.

The Driver's Coats are usually lined with woollen material.