Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/168

 THE MOTOR OVERCOAT.

Special Features: Loose fitting, with, plenty of room round seat and below, plenty of overlap at front. Buttoning lip to throat with Prussian collar. Turn back cult's to sleeves. Wind cuffs inside.

Draw line 0, 50, 0, * 3.

0 to 3, ⅓ depth of scye.

0 to 9, depth of scye.

0 to 17½, natural waist length, plus ½ inch.

0 to 26, 9 inches below waist length.

0 to 50, full length plus ½ inch.

Draw line at right angles to 3, 9 17½, 50.

0 to *3, one-twelfth breast.

3 to 8, width of back, plus 1 inch.

9 to 24, ½ chest, plus 6 inches. This will allow 44 inches for making up easy, and will be sufficient for a good thick lining, and 1½ inch V taken out under the arm.

24 to 15½ across chest, measure, plus ½ inch.

Find neck point by Registered Square, making 15½ to F the front shoulder, plus ½ inch, but less width of back neck.

15½ to D, the over-shoulder, plus ½ inch, less 9 W of back.

Sink scye ¾ inch below line, and take out 1½ inch V, running it off to nothing, 4 inches below waist.

Thus, V provides room for sitting down, and at the same time keeps the front close* at the lap.

F to D, trifle less than ¾ 8 of back.

F to V and V to I, one-twelfth breast.

Connect V with 24, and shape gorge from F to I.

Find spring at bottom of sideseam by coming in from 7, 6 inches, and dropping 1½4, and squaring by this line.

Square down from 24 for breast line, except in case of corpulency, when the waist must be made up to measure, plus 4 inches.

Add on lapel 6 inches at top, 4 inches at waist and 8 inches at bottom or thereabouts.

The collar diagram is self-explanatory. The figures representing inches. The inside collar is continued on the rigid side to form a tab.

The sleeve is cut as previously described and is usually finished with a turn back cuff, and finished on the inside with wind cuffs, which are brought close to the wrist by a piece of elastic.

The pockets are put in with a vertical welt and to be kept fairly high and well forward.