Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/164



LIVERY OVERCOAT. Diagram 265.

The Livery Overcoat is a D. B. Frock, generally made to fasten up to the neck with a Prussian collar, but sometimes made with a collar and turn.

Those for Coachmen have flaps on the hips and are cut to reach to the middle of the top boots.

Those for the footmen are cut to reach to within 7 inches of the ground.

There are no flaps on the hips, but the pockets are put in the pleats.

Ticket pocket in waist seam.

Grooms' Overcoats are cut to just cover the knee and have pockets and pleats.

All have side edges, 12 inches long.

The body part is lined with woollen.

The skirts are lined with shalloon and the sleeves with linen.

The buttons up the left forepart are plugged, and the top button arranged so that the end of the collar can be put under it.

The left gorge has to be lowered ¼ inch in making up the neck when they are finished with a Prussian collar.

The cuff is generally finished with five rows of stitching (diagram 266).

The edges are double stitched.

Sometimes the seams are slated and double-stitched.

The diagram is self-explanatory, and the only part that I need to refer to is that A * is as much above the waist seam as B is below it.

The front of the skirt being drawn at right angles to hip button and A.