Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/162

 NAVAL GREAT COAT. Diagram 264.

Official Regulations:—"Great coat to be worn over full dress and oilier uniform by all classes of officers." Blue twilled cloth, length to come 14 inches from the ground, double-breasted. Six uniform buttons up each side, the bottom one not to come below the level of the hips, Two pockets with Haps across the fronts at hips. A pleat down the back with an opening at the bottom, 18 inches long, with a fly and four small plain buttons. A cloth strap behind, with a button hole at each end, 8 inches apart, and two corresponding uniform buttons to confine the waist to the required size. Stand and fall collar, with hook and eye in collar seam, edges to be double stitched. hen a sword is worn with the great coat, it is to be hooked up, the scabbard passing through a slit in the side of the coat, and the hilt outside except in bad weather, when the sword may be trailed and the belt worn outside.

The diagram is self-explanatory, 8 inches being left on beyond centre of back to form the box pleat.

The top of pleat is held in position with a triangular tack.

It is lined down to the hips.

The expanding pleat idea has been utilised for Motor and other over-garments, the extra room so provided for the seat being very appropriate.

I have seen many ulsters made up in a similar style to this, but with a yoke across the top of back, the pleat starting from the points at centre of bottom part of yoke.