Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/158

 CORPULENT CHESTERFIELD.

Diagram 256.

Measures: 11, 18½, 40, 9, 21, 33, 11½, 17, 23, 50, 54.

0, 3¾, ⅓ depth of scye.

0,11, depth of scye.

0, 19, natural waist length, plus 4 inch.

19, 28, 9 inches.

0, 40, full length, plus 2 seams.

Hollow back seam ¼, and mark out at 26, 1 inch.

0 to 4¼, one-twelfth breast.

3¾, 10, width of back, plus 1 inch.

11 to 12½, ¼ breast.

Square down from 12½ to 12½ on waist line.

Now fix disproportion—waist should be 4 inches less than chest, thus—50, 46 difference between 46 and 54, 8 inches, which gives the amount of disproportion.

We place $1/undefined$ disproportion at sides, and this first operates by filling up the fish of 1 inch.

We locate the other by measuring forward from 12½ to 12⅞, $1/undefined$ disproportion less the 1 inch provided for in fish.

Square line from 12½ to 28½ by 22½, 12⅞.

Find 16½ by measuring back the X chest measure, plus ⅜.

Locate neck point by square or sweeps, as usual.

¼ to 9, is $1/undefined$ breast, plus ½

Take out ¼ or ½ at side seam and get spring over hips by measuring in from 9¼, 6 inches and dropping 1.

Measure up waist to measure, and 3½ to I, and draw breast line straight from Y through 28½ and I.

Next square down from I to L at right angles.

Then finish true breast line midway between L and K at Mark pocket 4 inches below waist line.

X is half way between side and breast line.

B is half inch back, and flap is placed half way on either side,

E, G is parallel to I, L, and E. H, is parallel to I, J.

The paper pattern is then cut up from G to E, E to C, and C to M.

G is then brought over to H, and the garment is cut in that style, so that the shape is as diagram 257, there being no seam below the pocket in the garment.

This is the best method of avoiding surplus material below waist, in three-seam garments for corpulent figures.