Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/154

 THE RAGLAN. Diagram 251.

The special feature of the Raglan is the shape of the shoulder, and its general looseness in the body.

I have already described how to give looseness in the body, so will confine my comments to the shoulders.

The dotted outlines show the ordinary Chesterfield shape.

From this reduce ½ inch at 3, and about 1½ at 8, curving it down to bottom of scye as diagram.

F to A about 1 inch, and from this curve down to front of scye, as shown.

RAGLAN SLEEVE. Diagram 252.

Draft sleeve as for ordinary Chester.

Square up from 4¾ to A.

Make it the same width as the shoulder, to 8.

A to D, 1 inch and shape as shown.

Make 4¾ a pivot, and sweep from A to B, making it about ⅛ breast.

B to C, ½ inch more than F. A.

Measure up from L to A of the forepart and make 5½ to C a trifle longer, so as to provide a little for fulling on.

See that curve of B, C harmonises with A of forepart.

Sometimes the seam is continued down topside to cuff, this is a matter of taste.

FLY FRONT FROCK. Diagram 253.

The Frock Overcoat promises to be one of the most popular styles of the immediate future.

The Frock Overcoat has been a favourite from time to time.

I therefore give a diagram and description of cutting it.

All the points are found in the same way as described for the Chesterfield, even to the adding on of 2 inches to the front.

The principal variation is in the position of the seams.

The back is found by measuring in from 171, 4 inch.

The width of back scye and back waist are made about 21 inches.

The sideseam is hollowed ½ inch from angle line.

The waist is suppressed 1½. between back and side body, and 1 inch between sidebody and forepart.

The waist seam is hollowed up 1 inch.

The skirt is formed by dropping down from B 3 inches, and squaring by 3 A, going down 9 inches and out 1, as for Frock Coats.

Get run of front by marking down 3 inches, and squaring by this point and B.