Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/152



DOUBLE-BREASTED SAC. Diagram 249.

Of the various styles of Overcoats that have retained their popularity any length of time, the D. B. Sac must certainly take an important place.

It is a favourite for driving, coaching, etc., and when made from Drab Beaver or Melton has a very stylish appearance.

The whole back I have illustrated is marked ¼ inch from construction line, but otherwise all the points are found as described for the Fly Front Chester, on page 132.

Looseness is imparted to the body part by allowing the fore-part to overlap the back 1 or 1½ at waist, and drawing the side-seam straight through.

If a little more fulness is desired in back, mark out from 17½, ½ or 1 inch, and draw centre of back through from 0 to bottom.

Draw breast line straight down from 21½, and add on about 3½ for overlap.

The lapel is made pointed, and it should always be borne in mind that the lapel between I and 25 is shaped according to taste, and in no way governs the fit.

A V is sometimes taken out of front of gorge as at A, but this is quite optional.

The buttons are placed as far behind the breast line as the holes are in front of it, when the edge is made up.

This means that the breast line on the left forepart should come exactly over the breast line of the right forepart.

The ticket pocket is placed on the level of the waist, and the hip pockets about 4½ inches below waist.

When the seams are lapped the rule is to let the left overlap the right, the back overlap the front, and the top sidesleeve overlap the under.