Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/151

 SEAMS AND STRAPPINGS.

Another marked feature in the Overcoats of the past season was the double stitched raised seams, used with such excellent effect on the Tweeds which were so popular.

In cutting for these, the only provision necessary is to allow a good inlay on the under part, so that the stitching may have some foundation.

On faced cloths, strappings were freely used from ¾ to 2 inches wide; they were placed down the centre of the back and across the back to imitate yokes. They were generally cut from the width of the material, so that the way of the wool might contrast. This, however, is a matter of taste.

FUR LININGS.

Fur linings were freely used. Sable, Astrachan and other furs were also used. To make provision for these an addition of 1 to 2 inches a side is necessary, otherwise they are cut as usual. The collar for fur lined overcoats is usually of the Roll type. The fronts are often trimmed with braid and olivette buttons. The fronts are fastened with loops of braid which go over the Barrel buttons.

THE OVERCOAT SLEEVE.

Diagram 250. Page 137.

Find points from scye as for undercoat. 0, 5, the same as from centre of back to front of scve in draft, less back width.

0 to 1, 1 inch.

Back pitch 2 inches below shoulder seam.

Front pitch ¾ above scye line.

1 to 9¼, as scye from A to 8 and D to B.

0, 4⅝, is half way.

Mark off length to elbow and cuff, adding not less than ¾ inch for seams of back and sleeve.

Make elbow ½ inch less than fourth breast and cuff, 1 inch more than $1/undefined$ breast, or to taste.

Hollow forearm 1 inch, and sweep cuff by 9¼ from 7 to 24.