Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/150

 If desired to fit closely take out fish of ½ or 1 inch under arm, and make up waist to not less than 3½ over half waist measure.

G is ¾ longer from waist line than 40 is.

For fly front add on 2 inches, and terminate fly about 8 inches below waist.

Shape lapel to taste, keeping: it well up at front.

Give plenty of length to the fall edge of collar.

YOKED OVERCOATS.

The Overcoats of the last season were in many cases finished with yokes.

The method of cutting these is to mark the yoke of the desired shape on back and forepart, cut it off, allow for two seams, by adding on ½A inch at the top of the part where the yoke has been cut off.

Some of the overcoats have been cut with the shoulder seam right on the top of the shoulder.

In order to obtain this, cut off 1 inch from the shoulder of forepart and neck, and 1½ at scye end, adding what is cut off from the front to the back.

A seam is also carried down the top side sleeve.

provide for this, cut the top side sleeve up, where it is desired for the seam to come, and add on ½ inch to provide for the seams.

These coats are usually finished with vertical pockets, the mouths starting about 1 inch below the waist, and are made about 6½ or 7 inches deep.