Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/148

 FLY FRONT CHESTERFIELD. Diagram 248.

Measures: 9, 17, 40, 6¾, 20, 32, 8, 12½, 17, 36, 32.

The chest. and waist measures taken over vest only.

Overcoat allowances: Back £ inch wider, waist 4 inch longer. Front and over-shoulder ⅜ inch longer, across chest ⅜ wider. An extra inch allowed over chest, waist and hips. Side deepened ½inch. More spring given to bottom of side seam. Sleeve cut 4 inch wider at elbow and cuff.

System : (Diagram 248). Draw line 0, 40, 0, 3.

0 to 3, ⅓ depth of scye.

0 to 9, depth of scye.

0 to 17½, natural waist, plus 4 inch.

17½ to 26½, 9 inches more or less according to taste and length of garment.

0 to 40, full length, plus two seams.

Draw lines at right angles to these points.

0 to 3*, one-twelfth breast.

3 to 7¾, width of back, plus 1 inch.

9 to 21½, half chest, plus 3½.

21 to 13½, the across chest measure, is taken plus ⅜ inch.

Find the neck point by the new Registered Square, placing it on depth of scye line, as shown; and marking up to F from 13⅛ the front shoulder measure, less width of back neck, plus ⅜.

It may be found by sweeping by this quantity from F, and making a second sweep from 21½4, adding 1 inch to the former quantity used.

Measure up from 13⅛ to D the over-shoulder measure, less 9 W of the hack.

F, D, ¼ inch less than back shoulder.

Shape scye as shown, sinking it ½ inch below depth of scye line.

F to V, one-twelfth breast.

V to I, same, or to taste.

If there is a back seam, hollow back at waist ¼.

If whole back, draw straight line 0 to 40.

If Sac back, as dot and dash line, marking out at 26½, 1inch.

Width at back of waist, $1/undefined$ breast, plus ½ inch.

Square down and shape up to back scye as shown.

Take out about 1 inch suppression at waist, and get spring over hips by marking forward from 7¼, 0 inches and dropping 1.

Squaring 7¼ E by 7¼ 1.