Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/146



Uie simplest measures for an overcoat are :—(1) Nape to natural waist, 1 to 3.

(2) Nape to full length, 1 to 4. (3) Width of back (half), 5 to 6.

(4) Continue to elbow, 5 to 7.

(5) Continue to cuff 5, (5, 7 and 8.

(6) Size of chest.

(7) Size of waist.

(8) Size of hips.

DIRECT MEASURES (Figure 3).

In addition to these I advise the taking of four extra measures.

These are known as (1) Depth of scye. (2) Across chest. (3) Front shoulder, and (4) Over-shoulder.

These enable the cutter to accurately locate the scye, adjust the balance to the requirements of the figure, and obtain the right slope of the shoulder.

To take these measures—first place the square close up to the armpit (see figure 3) or a close as it is desired the garment shall come.

See that the long arm of square 11, 14 is upright.

Then make a mark at top of square at 11 and 13.

Now go to the back of the customer and place the corner of square on 13; see that the long arm is upright and make a mark at 2.