Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/145



INTRODUCTION.

The variation of temperature experienced in England, makes an Overcoat a necessity.

The cutting of Overcoats forms the subject of this Part.

Overcoats require several adaptations from Lounges.

First, they require to be quite a size larger to enable them to go over the undercoat.

They require additional length of front shoulder for the increase consequent on the building up of the round of shoulder by the extra thickness of the undercoat.

My readers will at once recognise the difference between adding an extra layer to a round to adding an extra layer to a flat surface.

In the former case the circumference is increased, in the latter the length over the surface remains the same.

For this reason, a longer front balance is necessary for overcoats than for undercoats.

Extra spring is necessary round the hips, to provide room for the wearer when walking.

The fronts are usually provided with extra overlap.

The sleeves have to be cut wider and slightly longer.

THE MEASURES.

There are two methods of taking the chest, waist and hip measures.

The one is to take them over the vest as for an undercoat, and make provision for its going over the undercoat when cutting.

The second is to take these measures over the undercoat.

Either method will prove successful, but I prefer to take them over the vest only, as then my measures are uniform for all garments. (Figures 1 and 2.)