Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/140

 SAILOR BLOUSE. Diagram 283.

Draw line, 0, 16.

0 to 2, ⅓ depth of scye.

0, 6, depth of scye.

0, 12, natural waist length.

12 to 16, 4 inches.

12 to 1, 1 inch.

Draw centre of back from 0 through 1.

Draw lines at right angles to 0, 2, 6, 12.

0 to 2 * one-twelfth breast.

Come up ⅝ and shape back neck. 2 to 5, width of back plus seams.

6 to 7, ¼ breast plus 1 and 12 to 8, 1 inch more.

6 to 14, half breast plus 2 inches.

14 to 9, the across chest measure.

Find F, either by square or sweeps, if by the latter only, add ¾ for the second sweep.

9 to F equals the front shoulder measure, less width of back neck.

The over-shoulder, less G, AY of back, gives the quantity from 9 to D.

F to V, one-twelfth breast and A* to I the same quantity.

Draw breast line from V through 14 to bottom straight.

Let side overlap from 8 to G, 2 inches.

Add on 1 inch button stand, and complete as diagram.

Sleeve (diagram 286) 0 to 2 one-twelfth breast.

0 to 13½, length desired.

2 to 7, half scye, plus 1 to 14 inches.

13½ to 5½, $1/undefined$ breast, plus 14.

Diagram 287 shows the cuff.

Diagram 284, the sailor collar.

7 to 2 and 7 to 8, ¼ breast.

G agrees with opening of the jacket.

Diagram 285 shows the round cape collar, now so popular.

BOYS' NORFOLK JACKETS.

These are cut on exactly the same lines as described on page 60, for men. Boys being, as a rule, large in the waist, no fish should be taken out under the arm. The allowance over the half chest and waist measures should be in harmony with the degree of ease desired, as a rule, say 24 inches.

It is always well to bear in mind that boys' clothing should be cut to fit easily.

BOYS' VESTS AND KNICKERS.

The system for producing these is the same as is described in Part I. for men, the proportion being the same in each case.