Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/14

 TROUSERS.

Diagram 1. Measures: 44, 32, 30, 30, 18, 17.

1 to 2, length of side.

2 to 3, length of leg.

3 to 4, one-sixth seat

3 to 5, one-fourth seat.

3 to 6, one-third seat plus ¼ inch.

Square down from 4 and up from 5.

8 to 10, one-fourth waist plus ½ inch.

4 to 13, 2 inches less than half leg length.

13 to 14 and 13 to 15, each one-fourth knee.

11 to 2, one-fourth bottom,

11 to 12, one-fourth bottom less ½ inch.

Complete outline by these points.

The dress, is usually taken out of the right topside—thus, ns follows.

6 to 7 is 1 to 1½ inches, grade off into leg seam and up into fork.

UNDERSIDES. 5 to 10, one-fourth seat, or use method shown on page 6.

Draw line from point 0 through 10.

5 to 17, one-eighth seat.

14 to 18, 1 inch.

12 to 9, 1½ inches.

Measure up waist and allow 2½ inches.

Take out fish of 1 inch about 3 inches from sideseam.

Square across to 22 by seat seam.

20 is 2 inches from seat seam.

21 is 1½ inches above.

Allow 2 inches over seat for ease and making up.

Draw sideseam from 22 through 23 to 15 and 2.

Allow inlay at side and seat seams of undersides and if

convenient at leg seam also.

Leave on 1½ inches for turn up on both top and undersides at bottom.

HIP POCKETS. Diagram 25. These are put in either with a welt, a flap or jeating.

The position for trousers of ordinary height is 3½ down from top at front, and 4½ down from top at back.

The size of pocket mouth is from 5 to 5½ inches.

The pocket must not be too deep.

Rule Pockets are made 12 inches long and are either put in with a welt just about level with fork or in the seam a little lower down.