Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/139

 ETON JACKET. Diagram 289.

The Eton Jacket bears the same relation to youths that the Frock and Dress Coats do to men.

The back is cut on the crease and usually finished with a point the bottom being curved up over the hips.

The back is cut about 1½ at waist, and the length extended 3½ inches below the waist line.

Three buttons are the usual number put up the front, but it is very exceptional for them to be worn fastened.

The lapel rolling low, the gorge is lowered as for a Dress Coat.

Care must be taken to avoid making the lapel too heavy.

Plenty of spring must be given to the hips, and it is usual to provide a good inlay or turn up all along the bottom.

One or two inside breast pockets are inserted, but otherwise this garment is finished plain.

For school wear, a no-collar vest is generally worn.

For dress purposes a roll collar, open low style, is adopted.

Trousers worn with Eton Jackets should fit closely in the seat.

They must not have seat pieces or darts, and are most successful when finished with cross pockets.

BOYS' LOUNGE JACKETS. These are cut on the same line as men's, with the omission of the fish from the under-arm and the amount of suppression taken out between back and forepart at waist, reduced to ½ or ¾ inch. See diagram of Lounge on page 55.