Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/13

 POINTS TO REMEMBER.

In drafting Trousers we have not only to fit the figure in a standing position, hut make provision for the movements of the body.

In doing this the following points must be borne in mind.

The seat expands 2 inches when wearer sits down.

The seat lengthens 4 to 6 inches when the wearer stoops.

The length of legs increases as the figure opens his legs and stands astride.

The system here described is arranged on the centre line method, it being in my opinion the simplest and most reliable, enabling the cutter to distribute the width of the legs in the most successful manner.

The product of the system is a clean fitting fork and a comfortable amount of ease in the seat.

If the system is drafted direct on the cloth, take special note if there is a way of the wool, and if so cut off the one length and turn it round, so that both layers of cloth have the pile running the same way.

When there is a pile to the cloth the undersides must not be reversed, in large sizes crutch pieces are necessary.

This system will be found most economical, enabling larger sizes to be taken out of the cloth .without, crutch pieces than can be obtained by most systems.

The dress is usually taken out of the right side, but this should be noted when taking the measures.

Theright side is the top layer when the top of trousers are at the right, hand, the bottom at. the left, and the sideseam nearest the cutter.

The dress is taken out of trousers on the opposite side of the leg to that on which the wearer adjusts his person, his shirt, etc.