Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/110

 MILITARY TUNIC. Diagram 107.

Measures: 8 ¼, 16, 26, 6¾, 20, 3½, 8½, 12½, 17, 36, 32.

System: 0 to 1, 1 inch.

0 to 4¾, half depth of scye plus ¾.

0, 8¼, depth, of scye.

0, 16, natural waist length.

0, 26½, full length plus ½ inch.

16 to ½, ½ inch, and draw line from 0, through ½, to bottom.

Draw lines at right angles to 1, 4¾, 8¼, 16.

1 to 3, one-sixth neck.

4¾ to A, across back measure plus one seam, the back being cut on crease.

Square up from A half depth of scye or one-sixth breast plus 1 inch and curve back scye out 1 inch.

Draw line A to 16 and hollow back at 1, 1 inch.

8¼ to 9, one-fourth breast.

8¼ to 20½, half chest plus 2½.

One of the official regulations being that they shall be cut large enough to allow of warm clothing being worn underneath, so that freedom of fit, essential to a working and service dress may be ensured.

Find neck point F by Registered Square or by sweeps, as before described.

Measure up to 17, the over-shoulder measure, less 8¼ width of back.

F to V, one-sixth neck; make F, A parallel to depth of scye line.

V to I about the same quantity.

It is essential the neck should fit closely.

Suppress waist 2 at sideseam and 1½ at under arm.

Measure up to half waist plus 1 inch.

Add on 1 on hole side and about 1½ on the button side, unless the button stand is sewn on a plan which is generally followed.

Skirt, A to B, one-sixth seat plus 1.

Square C, E by B, C.

Add on ½ inch of round.

C, G, one sixth seat less 1 and get run of front at right angles to A, G.

Draw a line across from C to A, and hollow ¼ inch.

The length of skirt for Field-Marshals, General Officers and Colonels on Staff, Royal Artillery, Royal Engineers, Foot Gaurds, Infantry Regiments, Army Service Corps, Royal Army Medical Corps, and departments generally, is 10 inches.

For Staff, Cavalry and Rifle Regiments, they are 9 inches, varying one-eighth inch for every inch of height.