Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/106

 CLERICAL CASSOCK. Diagram 104. Style: S. B., stand collar, full skirted, three seams with box pleats at centre of back, and both sideseams starting about 2 inches below waist.

Usually about forty buttons down front, only every one being made to button below waist.

Cut long enough to cover trousers, the rule being to make length 10 inches less than the height of customer.

Special care must be taken to give sufficient spring at bottom.

The cassock for a man, 36 breast, should measure about 3 yards round bottom.

The materials used are serge, russell cord, alpaca or silk.

They are usually lined to top of pleats; pockets arranged in side pleats and opening to allow of the hands going into the under pockets.

The diagram will explain itself, all the points being indicated by inches; the opening of the pleats is found by marking back 6 inches and dropping 11.

Cassocks are sometimes made D. B.

In this case add on 3 inches in front of edge of Diagram 104 and continue curve of neck up on the other side so that it does not measure more than $ of the neck across.

Cassock worn by Presbyterians are double-breasted, cut about 36 inches long without pleats at side or back seams, and have welt pockets at the sides.

The Roman Catholic Clergy wear the S. B. Cassock with a short full cape about 13 or 14 inches long, cut in the three quarter style. The sleeves are also capped about 8 inches down from the forearm.

Sometimes they have their cassocks cut with a sidebody after the old paletot style, the pleats being arranged as usual at the back and sides.

The cassock is sometimes called by its French name, Soutane.

Patterns for any style of Clerical garment may be obtained from our offices by return of post.