Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/104

 BUTLER'S LIVERY.

The Butler's Suit is always of black cloth.

The coat is cut in smart style, but not too fashionably.

It turns to the second hole from the waist.

The lapels are never faced with silk.

There are no side edges or sword flaps.

The buttons are plain black flexible.

The vest is the shaped opening, roll collar dress style, buttoning four.

The trousers are of medium width finished plain.

The under-butler is usually dressed as a footman.

BANK MESSENGERS.

The style of Livery worn by bank messengers varies.

Sometimes it is cut on the lines of a Footman's Coatee.

At others it is in D. B. Frock Coat style.

The collar in this latter case being braided, and the name of the bank embroidered on the collar.

Crest buttons are generally used.

Strong pockets are inserted with hole and button at mouth.

HOTEL PORTERS.

The Livery worn by hotel porters is generally of the S. B. Frock Coat style, finished with a stand collar at neck.

The fronts are often elaborately trimmed and the name of the hotel embroidered on the collar.

Sometimes they are made to hook and eye and sometimes to button.

Occasionally they are also supplied with S. B. Jackets or D. B. Reefers, with the cuffs and collars trimmed.

The trousers are also piped or braided down the sideseams.

CLERICAL GARMENTS.

Of the many specialities made for Clergymen, those most in demand are the's. B. Stand Collar Frock and the Cassock. I, therefore, illustrate these two garments as examples of clerical garments.

Diagram 103.

Style: S. B. Frock, stand collar, with opening about 24 inches wide when buttoned; six buttons down front, skirt fairly long.

Special attention should be given to the neck so that the run of linen collar and coat collar may harmonise.

In cutting, the principal points are found as previously described.

A moderate amount of ease should be given and an extra button stand left on the button side.

Add ¾ button stand to the hole side and D to the button side beyond breast line.

For the spring of skirt come down from G to X2 to 2½ inches, and make C to X the same quantity.

These garments should be finished as neatly as possible, and the customer's wishes carefully attended to.