Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/100

 GAMEKEEPER'S COAT. Usually made of Brown Velveteen.

It is cut in Morning Coat style with very forward skirts, the spring being arranged as for Frock Coat.

Allow 3 inches over half breast and the same over waist.

Shoulders must be cut large and generally it must be easy fitting. Hare pockets are put inside the skirt.

THE PAD GROOM'S FROCK.

Style: S. B. Frock: plain edges, close fitting, waist seam 1 inch below natural waist so that belt may rest on hip buttons; inside pleat pockets, side edge put in back pleat 9 inches long; skirt from 13 to 14 inches long; livery cuff with two holes and buttons; general appearance, smart and neat.

THE GROOM'S FROCK. Diagram 98.

Style: S. B. Frock, to button five or six, according to height of wearer.

No pockets on hips.

Short side edge put in black pleat, 9 inches long, pointed at the back, with three buttons.

Pockets in pleats.

Skirts cut to the short and close side.

All the points found as previously described, G to F may be made 2 to 2½ inches, the rest as usual.

COLOUR REGULATIONS.

The colour of coat should match body of carriage.

The piping should match fine lines on carriage.

The buttons should match the harness fittings.

The Striped Valencia of vest should match the striped band on horse's head.

For mourning, a 2 inch band is put on the coats just above elbow and the gilt buttons are replaced by Black Flexibles.

Cockades are worn on the left side of silk hat.

If silver lace is worn on hat the bow is worn in front.