Page:Twentieth Century Impressions of Hongkong, Shanghai, and other Treaty Ports of China.djvu/691



HONGKONG.

N approaching Hongkong the visitor cannot fail to be impressed by the grandeur of the general surroundings. Separated from the mainland by an irregular arm of the sea from one to five miles wide, which constitutes its magnificent harbour, Hongkong is protected on this side by a long range of bare and rugged peaks, which present a striking contrast to the verdure-clad hills on the island.

The city of Victoria, built on the shore and hillside facing the harbour to the north, is remarkable for its imposing edifices, many of which are equal to the finest to be seen in any modern European city. These buildings, consisting of offices, hotels, clubs, &amp;c., constitute the European commercial quarter. To the west lies Chinatown, and above, rising tier upon tier, are charmingly situated residences to within a few hundred feet of the summit of Victoria Peak, about 1,800 feet above the level of the sea, and locally known as "The Peak." This district has, of late years, become the most popular residential quarter, particularly during the summer months, when the atmosphere there is some ten degrees cooler than in the city. Situated on the higher slopes and ridges, many of the houses are visible from below. A funicular railway runs from near the centre of the town to Victoria Gap, a short distance from the flagstaff (signal station), which can be easily reached on foot, or in sedan chair—the only possible means of conveyance owing to the hilliness of the district. This is the principal point of interest for the visitor, as the view from the Peak on a clear day is magnificent. The harbour, when seen at night-time from this elevation, illuminated by myriads of lights from ships, junks, and sampans, is a never-to-be-forgotten sight. A few afternoons can well be spent in rambling over the Peak District, the mountain air being most exhilarating.

Another of the principal points of interest for the visitor is the Wongneichung Valley (commonly known as "Happy Valley"), a beautiful spot enclosed by fir-clad hills, which can be reached from the centre of the city in twenty minutes by electric car or rickshaw. Here are situated the recreation grounds of the Colony, including a very fine racecourse, and, incongruously enough, on the hillside to the right, the Protestant, Roman Catholic, Parsee, and Mahomedan cemeteries—all beautiful as regards their monuments, horticulture, and situation.

The prevailing opinion among tourists visiting Hongkong for the first time seems to be that there is little or nothing in the island worthy of their attention. This is a great mistake, however; and, although the climate can hardly be considered as conducive to a lengthy stay (except during the six winter months, when magnificent weather usually prevails), a week spent in exploring the highways and by-ways of this beautiful island cannot fail to charm. It is doubtful if the walk from the Happy Valley, along Bowen Road, returning to the city through the Botanical Gardens, can be excelled in any other part of the world.

No visitor should leave Hongkong without seeing Chinatown. Those in quest of curios will find that everything that is produced or manufactured in any part of the vast Chinese Empire is procurable in Hongkong. It is, of course, usually necessary to drive a hard bargain. A Chinese theatre is well worth a visit, although the Chinese idea of music is scarcely in accord with our own!

Chief among other points of general interest that may be mentioned are the City Hall, with its museum, Government House, the cathedrals, the Tytam Waterworks, and the Docks. All the principal steamers arriving in the harbour are met by hotel launches, which convey passengers and their baggage ashore, thereby reducing to a minimum the trouble and expense of landing. The principal hotels are the Hongkong and King Edward, both situated in Des Voeux Road, the Connaught and the Oriental in Queen's Road, Kingsclere Private Hotel on Kennedy Road (one of the upper levels), the Peak Hotel at the upper terminus of the funicular railway, and the Kowloon Hotel on the Kowloon Peninsula.

The Colony of Hongkong now comprises also the peninsula of Kowloon on the mainland, and about 275 square miles of the territory behind Kowloon have been leased to Great Britain for ninety-nine years. Many very fine excursions can be had over these hills, and visitors who are fond of climbing will thoroughly enjoy a trip to the top of Taimoshan, a peak 3,640 feet high. This can best be done by taking steam launch to Chin-wan, from which point the ascent and descent can be made in about three and a half hours. The view from the summit, embracing, as it does, a panoramic view extending fifty miles in every direction, is ample compensation for the exertion of the climb.

Hongkong being a free port, visitors are free from all troublesome Customs formalities. The currency, however, is somewhat complicated, and a few words in this connection will not be out of place. There is no gold standard, the monetary unit being the silver dollar. The nominal value of this is two shillings but enormous fluctuations take place from time to time. Notes are issued by the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, the Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China, and the National Bank of China, which are legal tender everywhere. The small silver coins minted in the neighbouring Chinese province of Kwangtung are also accepted, and are in general circulation except in the banks and Government offices. Visitors are recommended, on arrival, to pay a visit to the local office of Messrs. Thomas Cook &amp; Son (16, Des Voeux Road Central), the well-known firm of tourist agents, where they can obtain a supply of the local currency at current exchange, and receive advice as to the best way of filling up the time they have at their disposal.

The majority of visitors will, of course, include Canton and Macao in their itinerary. The former is distant about nine hours by steamboat from Hongkong, and the trip one of the most interesting to the visitor desiring to see something of Chinese life in its reality. The journey is easily accomplished. Three lines of steamers leave Hongkong every night (except Saturday) for Canton, returning nightly (except Sunday) from Canton. The return fares (including berth, but not meals) are $16 by the British line, $10 by the French line, and $8 by the Chinese line. The British line maintains, also, a daily service both ways (Sundays excepted). If time permits, visitors are recommended to take the morning steamer, as the arrival in the daytime, when everything is in full swing, and the river is crowded with craft of every description, is a unique experience. From start to finish the trip is full of interest.

All these boats have excellent accommodation, and berths can be reserved and tickets obtained through Messrs. Thomas Cook &amp; Son,