Page:Twentieth Century Impressions of Hongkong, Shanghai, and other Treaty Ports of China.djvu/387

Rh Queen of Heaven, the guardian of sailors. The side altar on the left is to Kwanyin, the goddess of mercy, and the shrine on the right to the "Three Pure Ones." Two two-storeyed buildings like kiosks contain images of Ching Tsiang Ching and Liu Tsiang Ching, who are reputed to hear and see respectively anything said or done within a thousand li of Shanghai. Some distance further along, where North Honan Road is crossed by Boone Road, is the Shanghai Bankers' Guild House, which, despite its unostentatious exterior, is the most sumptuous Chinese building in the Settlement. One hall is dedicated very appropriately to Say Zung, the god of wealth. Around the walls are twelve pewter representations of gods that were made at Ningpo, and there are also two life-size pewter storks—emblems of immortality. Kwan Tai, the god of war, is similarly honoured with a temple. Above him is a picturesquely carved canopy of red lacquer and gold, while in front stand a blackwood lamp with red tassels, and candlesticks of Ningpo pewter, 7 feet in height. On either side are rows of halberds with red shafts and pewter heads, and in front of these are two groups of four figures, each representing "the legendary beings of the Taoist sect, who attained immortality." Altogether there are four main buildings and three courts, within which are to be seen many interesting specimens of carving, stone lozenge work, and other forms of Chinese art. Off the extreme end of the North Honan Road lies the railway station, whence the train may be taken either to Woosung or to Nanking, a former capital of this part of China, and the burial place of one of the Emperors of the Ming dynasty.

From the end of Nanking Road, on the east side of the Defence Creek, Bubbling Well Road stretches to the eastern boundary of the Settlement, some two miles distant, and forms the approach to the most desirable residential quarter of Shanghai. Constructed as a private driving road in 1862 by the trustees of the Shanghai Riding Course, it was handed over to the Municipal Council four years later, as the subscriptions for keeping it in repair fell below the required amount. Shaded with trees for almost its entire length, and bordered by the lawns and gardens of the many charming houses that lie along its course, this road is a favourite drive, and in the early evening is thronged with carriages making their way to the outskirts of the Settlement. Several places of interest are passed en route. Just across the Defence Creek bridge is the Recreation Ground, enclosed by the racecourse, which has a circumference of a mile and a quarter. Embracing an area of 430 mow, this magnificent open space is probably the largest in the Far East. For its possession the inhabitants of Shanghai are indebted to the public spirit of four or five gentlemen of a former generation who, foreseeing the growth of the Settlement, purchased some property which was on the market for a recreation ground, and then invited subscriptions towards the cost. In a few years this land was sold at an enormous profit, and with the proceeds the present site was acquired, the original subscriptions were returned, and a fund was established from which at one time or another nearly every local organisation which exists for the amusement of the public has received support. Like the widow's cruse the fund never fails, for it is constantly replenished by the rentals paid by the cricket, football, tennis, polo, golf, baseball, and swimming clubs for the use of the ground, and by the interest which accrues from loans advanced to tide various organisations over their difficulties. Next to this reserve are the premises of the Race Club, easily distinguishable by the clock tower which rises from their midst. A little further along is the Country Club, the great social rendez-vous. The building has the appearance of a substantial private residence, and contains several commodious and well-appointed apartments. The front faces extensive grounds laid out with lawns, flower beds, and ornamental water. Close at hand are Chang Su Ho's pleasure gardens and Arcadia Hall, a popular resort at which various kinds of amusement are provided, while almost directly opposite is the Chinese Taoutai's Yamen, a plastered building of no great architectural merit. Some distance further