Page:Twentieth Century Impressions of Hongkong, Shanghai, and other Treaty Ports of China.djvu/164

 with rich tints of orange, yellow, and primrose that invest even the bare hills with a golden glow, the spectacle is one of indescribable charm.

Communication between Victoria and the Kowloon Peninsula is maintained by a number of ferry launches, the most important being the Star Ferry Company's boats, which cross from the centre of the city direct to Tsim-tsa-tsui Point. The other launches are used by Chinese only, and run to Hunghom and Kowloon City, on the eastern side of the peninsula, and Yaumati and Sam Shui Po on the western side. At the present time Kowloon is in its youth, but it is growing vigorously, and gives fair promise for the future, when the Kowloon-Canton Railway shall have linked it up with Peking and the Trans-Siberian Railway.

Practically all the wharves in the Colony are on the peninsula—a fact which accounts for the clean appearance of the water front at Victoria. At Sam Shui Po the Hongkong and Whampoa Dock Company have constructed the Cosmopolitan Docks. The Hongkong Wharf and Godown Company own a large slice of the foreshore on the western side of the peninsula, and upon this they have built new wharves to take the place of those destroyed in the typhoon of September 18, 1906. Messrs. Butterfield &amp; Swire, also, have erected new steel wharves on the reclaimed land at the very point of the peninsula, and at the time of writing are adding huge godowns, which will be in close proximity to the terminus of the line from Kowloon to Canton that is now under construction. The necessary land for the railway station, shunting yards, workshops, &amp;c., in connection with this project, is being obtained by extensive reclamations on the eastern side of the peninsula, this method being less costly than purchasing land; and it requires no great prophetic instinct to predict that in time the whole of Hunghom Bay will be reclaimed.

Close to the Ferry Wharf, and occupying an eminence that commands a good view of the harbour, is the Water Police Station, and from the flagstaff on Signal Hill to the eastward weather signals are exhibited both day and night, the time-ball is operated, and incoming vessels are announced. The Post Office, in close proximity to the wharf, is a small building, but is large enough for the present needs of the locality. Small residences, most of which are semi-detached, are scattered about close to the water, and behind these are terraces of small dwellings—each containing from four to six airy rooms—which are mainly occupied by those to whom the high rentals demanded in the island of Hongkong are prohibitive. All the roads on the peninsula are wide and lined with trees, and two in particular—Robinson Road and Gascoigne Road—are noticeable by reason of their width. In the former is situated the Anglican Church of St. Andrew—an excellent example of modern work in Early English Gothic style—presented by Sir Paul Chafer; and close to this is the Kowloon British School erected in 1901 at the expense of Mr. Ho Tung. It may here be mentioned, in passing, that there is a Roman Catholic Church in Des Voeux Road, the gift of Mr. S. A. Gomes. Gascoigne Road, which is 100 feet wide, runs right across the peninsula from Hunghom to Yaumati, and skirts the King's Park, a large enclosure reserved for recreation, and the United Services Recreation Ground.

The Hongkong Observatory, a large but unpretentious building, the equipment of which was adversely criticised after the 1906 typhoon, is situated on Mount Elgin, in the centre of the peninsula. Skirting the peninsula to the east, and passing the military barracks, Hunghom, a small village in which the dock hands live, is reached. Sampans and small junks lie crowded together at the head of the bay, the shores of which are lined with engineering works, the most important being those of the Hongkong and Whampoa Dock Company. There is also an electric light and power station here.

Beyond the small villages of Hok-ün and Tukwawan, Matauchung and Hgatsinlong, is Kowloon City, once a thriving town but now simply a collection of dilapidated dwellings. Kowloon City, which is surrounded by a high granite wall, was seized by the British in May, 1899, although the agreement under which the New Territory was leased to the British specially stipulated that it was to remain in the hands of the Chinese. The circumstances which led to the taking of the city are interesting enough to bear repetition. Just prior to the date for taking over the New Territory (April 17, 1899) the British parties engaged in making the preliminary arrangements were attacked by bands of rebels, and military operations were found necessary. An engagement was fought at Sheung Tsun on April 18th, and the rebel force, estimated at 2,500 men, was completely routed, but, even after this, intermittent outbreaks occurred.