Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/542

534 pomegranate trees, and above the clean, flagged court hung cages of parrots and mocking-birds. We got here a very good dinner, and clean beds, which are generally rare articles in the country districts of Mexico. In the market-place of the town, we found a great stone pillar twelve feet high, and scattered about were mounds of adobe; but the real ruins were situated across the river.

The Indians here are Zapotecs, and not only speak their ancient language, but retain their old customs and manners. When they meet, they salute by carrying the hand of their neighbor to their lips, especially when a young person meets an older one. Though the Indians of the valley are Zapotecs, about eight leagues distant, in the almost inaccessible hills, are Indians who speak a distinct language and differ from them in many respects. These are the Mixes; their chief town is called Ajutla, and they are said—though I do not believe it—to retain the cannibalistic feature of their ancient sacrifices. They certainly yet sacrifice birds, wild animals, and fowls to their gods, being only nominally Catholics, and being as great heathens as ever. Owing to this belief, that they sacrifice and devour all strangers visiting this country, no white men go there; but, being a lean man, I think I would not hesitate to venture a visit. These cannibals have ever preserved their independence; they were never conquered. The Spaniards subjected the Aztecs, Tlascalans, Miztecs, and many others, but the Mixes have always maintained their liberty. The town was full of them the night of our arrival, it being Saturday, on their way to market in Tlacolula and Oaxaca. This was their halfway place, where they passed the night, though the next morning they departed before daylight. They brought with them oranges, peaches, and peppers; these they carried in nets, on the backs of mules and donkeys. We bought thirty large oranges for six cents, and a mule load, or five hundred, for a dollar. These people seemed not quite so dirty as the Zapotecs, who were immaculate as compared with the Mexicans,—the Aztecs.

It was a simple life opened to us in that Indian village,