Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/404



N the week in which the ascent of Popocatapetl was undertaken, I was particularly favored, for it does not often fall to the lot of man to witness a genuine, sanguinary bull-fight, to climb to the top of the highest volcano in North America, and to attend a banquet to the highest dignitary of our country, all within the space of seven days.

Yet I accomplished them all, and to this day cannot say which I relished most,—fight, feast, or climb. I think that our Minister's reception to Grant also occurred that week, when, through the kindness of our diplomatic representative, Mr. Morgan, I had the privilege of an interesting conversation with the former leader of our armies. General Grant confessed that he too had essayed Popocatapetl, when stationed at Amecameca, during the Mexican war, and had performed the ascent only after a great deal of difficulty.

He was plain Lieutenant Grant at that time; but, though he has since climbed to grander heights than many of his contemporaries, he could not then have been more affable and delightful than we find him at the present day. Even now, I believe he would rather ride through the sombre pines of Popocatapetl, and feast his eyes upon the glorious scenery that greets one when beyond the snow-line, than attend another one of the feasts and receptions that have of late years wearied him.

Banquets and receptions are, I suppose, nearly the same the world over, the difference merely being in the men who give and the men who receive them; all, as a rule, are a "weariness to the flesh." This granted, I take occasion to hasten away from the city, and start on a little journey southward.