Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/401

 changes according to the proximity of the respiradores, or sulphur vents. There are more than sixty sulfataras, one of which is over fifty feet in circumference, and from all parts columns of smoke more or less dense, and deadly fumes, are constantly issuing forth.

Complete daylight reigns at the bottom of the crater, but all this changes very quickly when a storm, or borrasca, is coming on; then the air becomes completely darkened, and the snow drifts thickly down, only to melt as soon as it settles, the respiradores are roaring continually, the heat increases to such an extent as to become insupportable, while from the centres of the sulfataras from time to time dart out flames and burning matters. It will thus be seen that the crater is not a pleasant place to work in, and that the laborers there run great risks. It is quite difficult for General Ochoa (to whom I am indebted for the above description of the abyss) to obtain laborers, as one would naturally suppose; though there is no especial mortality among the men working at this altitude, who labor in gangs, alternate weeks, camping in the crater beneath rough sheds. A sudden storm or earthquake sometimes makes it uncomfortable for them; but these volcaneros are a hardy class of Indians, and, if well supplied with mescal and aguardiente, endure their hardships wonderfully well.

Ascending again to the brim, I pitched my camera, and awaited an opportunity to get a view of the crater; but just then a few snowflakes drifted by, and the next minute a violent gust compelled us to seek shelter beneath the ledge of snow. The storm raged furiously for over an hour, pelting us unmercifully, till we were half buried in the drifts, and threatening to materially interfere with my photographic exposures; but taking advantage of a lull in the gale I crept with my guide to what he called the highest point,—el pico,—though without getting a view of the lower regions. We were indeed above the clouds, and on the very battle-field of the aerial elements. From the dismal depths of the crater the hissing of escaping steam and booming detonations told of the activity of the internal forces, while the crashing of falling stones awoke the echoes of this great basin in deafening reverberations.