Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/383

 pouring forth volumes of smoke. In his agony he would shake the whole earth with his tremblings. The affrighted Indians thus recognized him as Tlaloc, the "God of Storms," and Popocatapetl, the "Hill that Smokes."

When it was known among my friends in Mexico that I was going to attempt the ascent of Popocatapetl alone, they said I could not do it; men high in authority warned me of the dangers attending such an effort. Giving heed to the warnings of my friends, I attired myself in my oldest clothes, donned a Mexican sarape and sombrero, girt myself about with a belt stuffed full of cartridges, containing a dirk and a revolver, and then set out for the station. The disguise was so complete that an acquaintance who met me in the Plaza was about to pass without a recognition. I stopped him, and then he apologized.

"O, don't mention it," said I; "but tell me, do you see about me any indications of wealth?"

"No," he replied, "I 'm blessed if I do!"

Then I allowed him to pass on. At the station, the agent made me happy by handing out a third-class ticket at sight. I then knew that I appeared like a common Mexican, and that, unless I opened my mouth, no robber would attempt to murder me with the expectation of getting anything for his pains.

In Mexico, I had been kindly furnished with a letter by General Ochoa, who owns the crater of the volcano and procures sulphur from it, to his mayor-domo, Don Domingo Zela; but Don Domingo was absent when I arrived in Amecameca, and I was thrown upon my own resources. Very fortunately, there met me, as I stepped from the cars, a volcanero, or volcano-man, one who had worked in the crater digging sulphur, who offered his services as a guide to the top. His face told me he was honest and tolerably faithful, and we closed a bargain at once,—he to furnish me his own services, three horses, and a peon, at five dollars a day. Having concluded these preliminaries, we went in search of the one man of Amecameca who spoke English. After much trouble, we finally drew up at the door of a little house where two pretty girls were sewing; and, upon learning that "papa" was out, but would be back soon, I accepted their invitation to