Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/198

190 women and loveliest flowers in Mexico proper. Its architecture is not remarkable, if we except the old convent, said to have been built in the time of Cortes, and unless we consider the manner in which the houses—all of stone—are perched on the hillsides. The gardens of Jalapa are noted all over Mexico, because in them are gathered fruits and flowers of every zone. Coffee is the staple product, but bananas and plantains, as well as corn, fraternize with it, and serve to give a character to these gardens that impresses one strongly with the possibilities of this climate.

In the forests, out of sight, on the eastern declivity of the Cordilleras of Vera Cruz, flourishes that aromatic-fruited plant, the vanilla,—Vanilla planifolia. It is indigenous to the humid forests, and is carefully sought out and gathered by the Indians of the tierra caliente. The plant requires little care, but shade and moisture are necessary to its existence. The Indians, who yet reside in their primitive villages, are restricted in the harvest season by the alcalde who apportions to each his share of the labor. The harvest begins in March and April, and continues two or three months. The pods are carefully dried in the sun, and packed for shipment with equal solicitude.

Vanilla was assiduously cultivated by the Totonacs, who anciently dwelt in the coast region of Vera Cruz, and who