Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/129

Rh had undertaken this sixty-mile ride. He was a naturalist, who, after spending some time in Cuba, had now been two years or more in Yucatan. Tired of living entirely in the woods, where he had collected every known bug, bird, and beast, he had at last settled in this remote town, and was now practising as a physician. As he was the only one in these parts, he had a very profitable practice, though his only authority was a "Warren's Household Physician." In truth, his entire curriculum embraced no more than he had grubbed in a few months from between the lids of that book. Yet he was as successful as physicians who have had the advantage of colleges and medical schools, and could manage to kill almost as many as they could, even with their improved methods and medicines. He then had a practice of fifty dollars a week, and usually lost not more than half his patients. We did not find the Doctor in, but we took possession of his house and hammocks, and when he returned were very much at home. He was extremely delighted to see us, not having had a chance to speak his native tongue for several months.

He it was who was to conduct us to the haunts of the wild turkey, and we put all our guns in order, and were anxious to start at once. The report of a cannon startled us and made our cheeks turn pale, for that was a signal that the indefatigable General had organized and ordered another ball. As it was to be given in our honor, we could not well avoid attending, and thus the turkey hunt must be postponed. This was to be a grand affair,—what the negroes would call a "dignity ball,"—and the ladies who attended wore pure white, and were elegantly attired, while the gentlemen were in faultless evening dress. The jefe politico, or mayor of the town, had all the streets swept and cleaned, and the Casa Municipal decorated, and sent us a courteous invitation to attend, couched in elegant Spanish. A great crowd of Mestizos and Mestizas surrounded the side and two ends of the corridor, and gazed upon the aristocratic dancers with whom they were not allowed to mingle. The old General excited our curiosity by not appearing during the afternoon and early evening, but towards nine o'clock he