Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/125

Rh At two o'clock we drove into the large open square of Cansahcab, a neat little town, mostly of thatched houses, containing the best-preserved church and presbytery in the State. The meaning of the name of this town, which is Indian, is, that you may hunt a long time for water and not find it. This the Consul proved to be true, for he looked everywhere for a drink, but came back to us without having found it. As it was in the heat of the day, everybody was in his hammock, and every house was closed. Great flocks of blackbirds were in the square, the only living things in sight. The number of birds about these Indian villages, and their tameness, speak well for the gentle nature of the inhabitants.

Though we had but twelve miles farther to go, it would not do to pass through the town without seeing the head man; so we waited while he was sent for. After an hour, he came galloping in from his hacienda,—a great, good-looking, sensible man, of about fifty, in loose shirt, drawers, and sandals. He was delighted to see us, and ordered beer and refreshments at once, declared that we were going no farther that day, and turned our mules directly into his enclosure. This is the way they travel throughout Yucatan,—two or three hours on the road, and six or eight in drinking and chatting. Our host. General Theodosio Canto, was one of the famous men of the State. He has served a short term as Governor, and is the greatest man, the chief, of this portion of Yucatan. He has headed several revolutions, fighting long and obstinately. A long scar over his eye shows where he was terribly cut in one fight, when, also, his nose was nearly severed, and he was left on the field; yet he was out and fighting again two weeks afterward. He says that the blood he had in him then flowed out, and what he has now is all new.

The General told us that his town was seldom honored with such distinguished visitors as we, and that night he would give us a grand Mestiza ball. After an early dinner we went with the General and invited all the young ladies to the ball: the old ones and the men and boys were sure to come without asking. These young ladies had rather short notice, but then they had but little preparation to make, for they wear generally but two garments.