Page:Travels & discoveries in the Levant (1865) Vol. 1.djvu/404

350 deacons. He was dressed in a magnificent purple satin robe, richly embroidered. On his head was the round black cap and bishop's hood. His Eminence was now unrobed by the attendant deacons, and clothed in more gorgeous garments. First, there was a rich purple and gold robe in stripes, covered with small flowers. Over this was thrown a blue satin surplice with damasked flowers, bordered with a heavy gold fringe. Gold embroidered gauntlets were fastened round his wrists, and by his side hung a square purse, embroidered with gold on a green ground. Over this he wore a white satin stole with a gold fringe. On either side of his breast was an enamelled miniature, representing a subject from Scripture. His mitre was next placed on his head. It resembles in shape an imperial crown, above which is a round red cap, richly embroidered with diamonds and other precious stones; on the top was a diamond cross. The Archbishop was a fine-looking man with a long black beard, and wore his gorgeous vestments with a certain dignity.

The real business of the ceremony now began. A conversation was carried on between the Archbishop and priests, from the New Testament, as between our Saviour and the Apostles. It ended by the Archbishop saying, "I know that one of ye shall betray me." Each priest asked in turn, "Lord, is it I?" The deacons then took off the Bishop's stole, and tied an embroidered napkin round his waist; which done, one of them knelt down before the representative of St. Peter, with a silver basin in one hand and a ewer in the other. He poured a little water over the towel, which the Archbishop, kneeling, held in his hand. His Eminence just wetted the priest's foot, which had had a preparatory washing. The priest kissed his mitre. This was repeated to each in turn. Having resumed his robes, the Archbishop, accompanied by Peter, James, and John, left the platform. The three pretended to fall asleep, and the Bishop went to the grotto and prayed, in the words of our Saviour. He returned thrice to the sleepers, and then said, "Arise, let us be going." And so ended the sacred drama. All that remained was to kiss a sacred picture of our Saviour, exhibited by the Archbishop from the platform; and great was the rush of peasants to do this. Both actors and spectators seemed to witness this strange ceremony with the utmost reverence, and all went through their parts seriously and with apparent devotion. We returned the same day to Mytilene.