Page:Travels & discoveries in the Levant (1865) Vol. 1.djvu/403

Rh patient crosses himself abundantly. When he leaves, he hangs up a shred of his garment on a tree near the chapel, as a token that his malady is left behind. A little bush close by was quite covered with patches of old clothes. The Turks have the same superstition. Before the chapel is the fragment of a granite column which appears in situ, and near it is a simple capital.

Thursday, 28th, the Holy Thursday of the Greek Church. On this day we saw the Archbishop of Methymna wash the feet of twelve priests, in commemoration of our Saviour washing the feet of the Apostles. This rite, which is called is only performed once every seven years. At an early hour in the morning all the nuns from the neighbouring convent had arrived, and crowds of peasants from the villages were continually pouring in, all dressed in their gala clothes. The women from Ereso wore white hoods with crimson borders, which hung down on their shoulders. In the courtyard of the metropolis, or Archbishop's palace, a stage covered with green branches had been erected, and lamps were placed in the four corners: from the centre hung a brass chandelier. At one end was the bishop's throne with a. canopy of roses over his head; on either side of the platform were six chairs. At the other end, steps led up to the stage. On one side of the courtyard was a reading-desk, on the other a fountain was decked with green boughs to represent a grotto. In the palace itself, the preparations were great. Priests were tying candles together with particoloured ribbons; monks, in blue serge dresses, were running about with gorgeous clerical vestiures in their hands. In the passage were a crowd of laity and clergy. The chief psalm-singer of the diocese was in his glory, collecting his choir, and directing everybody. When the appointed hour, 10 a.m., arrived, there was a general rush into the courtyard.

The Reader, in a magnificent crimson silk robe, now advanced to the reading-desk, accompanied by the Psalm-singers, whose chanting continued throughout the ceremony. Twelve priests, in pairs, attended by two deacons, who held in one hand lighted candles, in the other a censer, advanced from the palace, and took their seats on the stage. They were all dressed in brilliant robes. The abbot of the neighbouring monastery, a portly personage, personated Peter; a mean, ugly-looking man represented Judas. He was dressed in green, and was distinguished from the others by being without the black priest's cap, and only wearing the hood. Last of all came the Archbishop, preceded by three